Picnic and BBQ Time
Outdoor grilling evokes certain primordial tribal rituals. Family and friends gather around the fire to share the day’s hunt. The men show their bravery taming the wild fire to feed the women and their young! Well... our roles in society have evolved, and the tribe has invented civilization. The hunt is done at the local supermarket, and we’re all drinking wine, to start.
Living in Japan has changed us too! Urban housing here doesn’t come with a backyard and a front lawn. To indulge our urge to braise food over charcoal briskets we have to head off to a park, the beach, or a friend’s house in suburbia.
Luckily, there are other ways to enjoy the flavors of smoked foods in an apaato. Pre-cooked yakitori, rotisserie chicken or hamburgers can save us the struggle with the charcoal. These are all widely available in food markets. It won’t substitute for the tribal ritual, but with some imagination, it is possible to arrange a party indoors that features our favorite summer flavors without having to gather wood for a bonfire.
Whether outside or indoors, there are some wines that match best the smoky aromas of grilled food. These combinations are not restricted to meat only. Vegetables, fish, tofu and other proteins like cheeses, quiche and omelettes can be successfully warmed in a barbecue to add a hint of smoky grilled aromas. Don’t forget sausages, which can be made from turkey or seafood and are easy to cook as well.
First, a word about wine service. When going al fresco, keep the wines protected from heat. Both white and red wines should be kept in a portable chiller. An alternative to a chiller is a thermal bag. These are very cheap and insulate the wines well enough if you keep a frozen gel pack inside. If the reds get too cold, you can pull the gel pack out. Another idea is to make a sangria. Just blend any good red or white wine with your favorite juice. Fresh-squeezed juice is the best. Add ice and add some sugar so that it doesn’t turn watery as the ice melts.
Glasses are usually difficult to handle outdoors and they may break during use or transport. Paper or plastic cups are normally used, but feel horrible on the lips and can contribute unexpected smells. There are plastic wine glasses in the market, however they usually come with a light stem which makes it very difficult to keep them upright if there is the slightest wind. A better alternative are the “Govino” recyclable cups. These were developed in California for use by wine salesmen. They are similar in shape to stemless crystal wine glasses and are much better for enjoying the aromas of wine, even in slight windy conditions. They also work great with beer and sparkling wines. Govino cups are available in Japan from Dean & Deluca. You can purchase them from their website also, which is unfortunately only in Japanese.
Green salads are a common side dish at a picnic or BBQ. Sparkling wines go great with salads. I prefer rose sparkling for the outdoors, as they tend to have stronger fruit aromas. Chilled potato salad or pasta salad are also common. If they include ham, bacon, or smoked salmon, a red sparkling wine is perfect. Red sparkling wines are not very easy to find, but I think that they can’t be beat for flexibility combining flavor intensity and a refreshing impact on a hot, humid day. Yellowglen Pink (rose) and Dreamtime Pass Red Sparkling Shiraz are two of my favorites. Both are available from Village Cellars. But if you add sparkling water to your sangria you can get the same effect.
Crisp, dry whites are excellent thirst quenchers. Riesling from Australia or Alsace are both a great choice, but off-dry German Riesling, coming at a lower alcoholic strength, cannot be beat for their gentleness. High alcohol wines are bound to warm you up. Not exactly what you want on a hot, humid day. Fried chicken calls for these refreshing whites. It is not the sweetness that makes these wines so food friendly or thirst quenching; it is the acidity. Think of them as a substitute for lemonade, with a bit of alcoholic punch.
Red wines need to be fruity in order to stand to the unpredictable smokiness of the grill. Even the most experienced tribal leader gets a steak impossibly overcooked and scorched on the outside once in a while. A grill tends to be an uneven cooker with variable heat areas, depending on the position of the coals. Oaky wines can fight a loosing battle with the intensity of grilled food. I prefer wines made with less oak like Zinfandel from Sonoma, Tempranillos from Spain or Chiantis from Tuscany. Grenache based wines are also great, especially if there is some Syrah blended into them. Grenache has a cranberry fruit nuance that is perfect with the drying effect of poultry meat and relieves the tongue from saltiness.
Pinot Noirs also seem to do the trick. Usually with a higher acidity, Pinot Noirs cut through oily dressings and meat fat, refreshing the palate between bites at the same time. Pinot Noir is also one of the few reds that will partner fish like salmon, or even delicate shrimp.
